Surfing the longest left in the world has been a dream of mine for a while, and when the call was made at the WAVES house in Lobitos to head south to Chicama, I was STOKED!
After an overnight bus trip from Talara to Trujillo, we got in at dawn, and raced to the water. The morning was cool and overcast, but all I saw was perfection. The sun started to break through just as I rounded the corner to reveal the second point, the Cape. It’s a long, windy, rocky, walk out to the Cape, but the sheer stoke and adrenaline that is running through the veins keeps my focus on the point.
I get to the rock where I have seen others get in. I wait for the set to come through and as the last wave breaks, jump off the rocks and into the icy water that pulls me into the take off zone, I am focused on the horizon, ready. The current starts to pull me, so I paddle to maintain position, up and over the first rising wall, my eye on the wave outside, the second peaks, and the third is my ride. Paddling hard looking down the line, to my feet and down the face, cheeehooooo!! Maintain speed make the section hit the lip and down, faster, cut back into the white water, get speed and spray my friends “En su cara!” cheehoo!! And it goes on and on and on, pumping up and down, the inside section gets faster ands sends me reeling towards the beach where I gleefully fall into the water, smiling, cheering and so grateful, so content, full of life and energy. Gracias!!!!!!!
-until next time Chicama–Kristin Reid–
