lining up

“Chicama is working,” Tali said to me. I, not knowing a single thing about this mysterious “Chicama,” but liking its eccentric pronunciation, inquired further as to how a wave can “work” or not. “This is ridiculous” I thought to myself, a wave is not a system of cogs and levers, “how could it possibly work.” As I would find out a few days later, the Chicama wave system does in fact work (I assure you, it works very well). Given the right arcane conditions (wave science I will never understand) the system serendipitously creates the world’s longest left hand break for the ultimate and inevitable side effect of “smiling ear to ear.”

Henry & Ronny

Two locals, named Henry and Ronny, were asked to venture the 12-hour trip with Dave, Tali, Kevin, and I. Given their previous community work with WAVES and their obvious potential to benefit from Surf tourism in Lobitos, the two were ideal candidates. I never quite realized the importance, or significance, of this trip for Henry and Ronny. This was, for me, just another surf trip. For the two brothers, however, this was their first time out of the city of Talara (a thirty minute drive out of Lobitos), and their first surf trip. Despite their inflection of modest excitement I knew what an invaluable experience this trip would prove to be, and to this fact, I was now even more excited to share this experience: to surf Chicama.

ITTSA is the way to go

After a 10-hour bus, a 2-hour local bus, and a short taxi ride to the hotel, the group was finally suiting up, getting ready to surf. My initial response was not to call the waves a “break,” but rather a “complex.” The expanse of approaching walls of water softly peeling left as you gently carve its curved crescent of a wave was more like a surfers playground- an aquatic jungle that could only be imagined and dreamt up by some crazed, surf-starved, maniacal genius. In my first session I caught the biggest, best, and longest waves of my life as if it was the culmination of my surfing career, formerly reserved to humble New England breaks. Depleted, exhausted, and yet still enthralled with the dream that is Chicama I ate to my hearts delight that night, anticipating the coming swell.

delicious again

The life was simple, as it should be. In between surfing we talked, played cards, explored the town of Malabrigo, and refueled with Tali’s cooking. For breakfast we had classic eggs and bacon on a roll while lunch and dinner ranged from stir-fry to a chicken barbeque with fruit salad or homemade hummus on the side. We ate the meals outside on a deck overlooking the legendary break. Henry’s passion for surf photography was made apparent by the 2,000 photos he took that week. More importantly, he honed a skill that could potentially provide a fiscal income for him, as he could sell photos to surfers in Lobitos. I myself came out with a few priceless surf photos, of which I will use to remind my grandchildren how cool I am in my old age.

In the end we were beaten and battered, and I myself was caught in the spin cycle of sets a few too many times. Despite this, the familiar exhaustion was all too relaxing and inspired some much needed non-action. I was left with a feeling of gratitude for having experienced the world’s longest left hand break- a feeling only intensified by the fraternal companionship that is Kevin, Dave, Tali, and the ever-appreciative Ronny and Henry.

-Ross Gormley